A tear shed but a walk completed

After severe reception difficulties in the Lakes meant any updates were from Cheryl I finished the walk yesterday afternoon an hour later than anticipated due to being on Gary & Helen time, two friends who came up with Cheryl to meet me at the end. Gary in particular operates on a timescale invariably somewhat behind what he says. Since the fantastic experience of easedale tarn on Thursday night I encountered six hours or persistant rain on the trek over High Raise and round Ennerdale water which did somewhat detract from the enjoyment.

The last nights camping was at a lovely farm just beyond Ennerdale Bridge but due to knackered legs by this stage I decided to stop off for tea before completing the days walking. Since Cheryl and I visited Ennerdale last October one of the pubs has gone from traditional if slightly amateurish local serving coast to coasters to gastro pub. If anybody has read Al Murreys book of common sense they will know that gastro pubs in his opinion rate as highly as the french... on the evidence of my encounter I concur so I went to the Shepherd arms hotel where I had a right laugh with a Victoria Wood sound alike lady who was walking alone for a few days. She was highly impressed when I purchased a bottle of wine for the remainder of the evening.

Once esconced at the campsite I followed the nightly tradition of falling asleep with half my drink unfinished and the inner compartment of the tent open. I think this has been the result of the exerciase and the fresh air and of course nothing due to any earlier consumption. As usual I awoke a couple of hours later to shut inner door and discard the remnants.

The final day started gloriously with a distant view of the sea and the final packing up of the rucksack. I appreciate it is incredibly sad to get emotional over a jetboil and a tent but these had been my home for 14 days and you do get attached to them. That said the prospect of a night in a hotel with a bath was appealing both to me and those in my company!

The days weather was a classic mixture of sunshine and showers plus the return of the headwinds missing for the past week. After the last climb although the sea was just about visible the lakes had disappeared under low cloud. However as I got nearer the coast the weather improved and the mountains were once more visible. It is quite exhilerating to look back and see how high you climbed and how far I have travelled.

Lunch was planned for the Dog and Partridge at Sandwith but unfortunately the landlord only opens when he can be arsed and Saturday lunchtimes obviously would involve too much trade and effort so I had to make do with the remnants of the last nights wine. While consuming said lunch I met three people walking in aid of a trust set up to commemorate the 12 military police killed in Iraq and we swapped sponsorship. While I was carrying 16kg they were carrying a dummy on a stretcher... each to their own.

Approaching the coast I had a big lump in my throat and a tear in the eye as I thought how proud my sister would be. I miss her a lot but this walk has also been carthartic in remembering her, the times together and supporting the cause. And then it was a push down to the end. Gary time eventually caught up and I strolled down the slope to meet Cheryl and Gary & Helen,
engage in the traditional dipping of the boots in the sea and wang the pebble I had carried all the way from Robin Hoods Bay.

And so its done, 200 miles, lost a bit of weight, got a bit of a tan, sore knees and a bit of work for Norman the physio to do, met loads of lovely people and raised over £3000 for The Lavender Trust. It has been fantastic and something I shall never forget. It would not however have been possible without the support and understanding of the bride, she's been a star and I am lucky to have her.



Over the coming days I shall try and update the missing days and add further photo's. And just in case the flying dutchmen, the Belgian Brothers, Kevin the horse shoesman and John from Reading get to read this remember we were the hardcore walkers... forget the B&B's, the luggage carriers etc, hardcore C2C 'ers carry the lot!

Flying Dutchmen, a Blacksmith and going wild...

Well tonight is John's wild camping night. He's set up camp at Easedale Tarn - see link for picture - no loos, no showers, hopefully not too much wildlife, just wonderful scenery and perfect peace.

Yesterday was a good day, just a climb of over 700 metres to contend with, but the sun shone and it wont surprise any of you who know John to hear that sunburn ensued...

Luckily he found that a few beers with a couple of Dutch guys at last night's camp site soon took his mind off the pain of the burning skin. An American who 'shoes horses' (I'm assuming thats a blacksmith then?) joined them and no doubt the intrepid trekker slept soundly. Whether the same could be said for those in the surrounding tents after hearing the 90Db snores that I have to contend with most nights (and no, I'm not missing that at all) is another matter entirely....

Also a mention for Matt and Dave who are Stags fans also walking the C2C. Whatever else this walk has been, it has reaffirmed John's belief that walkers are bloody nice people.

Sleep well x

PS hopefully there'll be decent phone reception at some point tomorrow, and you'll get the A team posting on here again

PPS for anyone who cant find the link to the pic of Easedale Tarn, click on the title of this entry and taadaaaa!!

golden brown tonight

what a fantastic day of weather plus a following wind for the first time. Walked from kirkby stephen to shap the edge of the lakes. 21 miles, up and down hill and still in one piece albeit creaking and slightly cooked , I mean tanned, down one side. Also picked up a bit more sponsorship and also managed to complete my set of three kings plus visit george on the way over... The sacrifices I make for local businesses. Tonight I camping on a proper farm and have already been visited by six hens. Hopefully they might leave an egg for breakfast.

hail in may?

Two more days done and no new injuries to report other than .rsi of the drinking hand. The cultural nature of the trip has improved following visits to the kings of both gunnerside and kirkby stephen, yesterday was beautiful until the mother of all storms wet me to the core. Swim shorts were in their element, rest of the kit was just wet through. Anyway once the tent was up I sought refuge in somewhere with a hot radiator requiring a longer stay to enable my boots to dry. There were some funny looks at my boots resting on the rad but hey I am used to funny looks! After yesterdays rain today started well with a long climb and the highest peak so far at 650m. Despite serious bogs that made kinder look a piece of cake boots stayed dry. However on reaching nine standards , 3m columns of limestone, it began to rain and then turned to hail. Ffs we are in may and the real football season is over. However after that the sun came out and despite a delay while I fought valiantly to get my overtrousers off , envisage an obese fly in a spiders web,

Tomorrow sees the longest stretch and I am already thinking of bed at 8.20. This walk is one long excess of partying! I cross the m6 and I have already seen the lakes. That said there are still six days of walking but at least tonight I am clean, the kit is clean and I have even had a proper shave. Bic sensitive shivers are not sensitive . Ps missed a historical landmark, I am currently visiting colgan castle!

fantastic days walking

after the mundane trials of the vale of York on Thursday yesterday was just fantastic despite meeting up with Pete W who kindly brought rain with him. Despite having to don the waterproof on a couple of occasions I still managed to get sunburn calfs ! After leaving Richmond we were rapidly into the joys of Swaledale and it was an absolute joy , also good to be walking and talking with somebody else after six days of solitary musings +marine having to suffer me alone for all that time?

evenings events
After discovering another landmark this one dating back to 1680, see history too, and called the Black Bull Pete caught the bus back to Richmond despite there being some debate amongst the locals as to whether the driver would be early or stop as it was friday! After getting to the campsite and being given a complimentary deckchair from the campsite owner I met up with john from reading. He has endured terrible weather walking the other way and his boots leak if the is dew in the next county. We returned to the landmark solely to try and dry said boots in front of the fire. Eventually as the smell of burning rubber filled the pub the landlady took pity and offered to dry the overnight for him. To repay this gesture of kindness we felt obliged to have another beer or two. Such are the trials and tribulations of the c2c .

Greetings from Richmond library

Waheeey, technology that works. After the trials and tribulations of my phone and the mobile charger (thanks Jim by the way, worked great when the phone was full of charge, dead when required) plus the lack of signal I am finally able to update you on progress so far.

I have been totally knackered at the end of each day whatever the distance walked and especially so yesterday after the small matter of 21 miles into a very strong headwind....... who's bright idea was it to walk east to west into the prevailing wind. That said the walk is brilliant and I have seen a whole variety of landmarks (The bay view, Station Tavern, Lion Inn, Lord Stones Cafe (£2 per pint of Kronenbourg!!), Queen Catherine and Catterick Bridge Hotel)......... what do you mean pubs are not landmarks? Total distance so far is about 80 miles so getting there.

So far I have walked a lovely part of the North Yorks coast, crossed the North York Moors seemingly on an ever continuing uphill slope, crossed the Vale of York yesterday and will shortly be heading into the yorkshire dales. Apart from yesterday which was repetitive agricultural land the scenery has been fantastic. Weather has been ok with me dodging the showers remarkably. For cultural reasons visit previously mentioned landmarks in times of rain!

Highlight has to have been the villager tourist squabble in Grosmont. As another steam train left the station next to the pub a more senior and slightly intoxicated lady announced "there goes another polar bear" in a louder than usual voice. At this a somewhat agitated steam buff / trainspotter advised her "that some of us like trains and if you don't like it p*** off and live somewhere else". This brought a strong response from the locals encouraging the spotter to fornicate elsewhere. Shortly after it calmed down only for spotters Dad to then enter the pub and complain that the locals "had been upsetting my son and if they dont like it here to etc etc". Must be a riot in that household.

Anyway injury update. Knees hurt but are holding up thus far, various niggles and aches and pains but generably bearable by the following morning. The rash (caused by a case of the Betty's) has improved you will be pleased to know and miracuously the back is holding up well. Norman you have performed wonders so far.

I shall try and post more regularly when the new charger arrives today and subject to finding signal in the evening. Thanks for the support.

John

Oops....and some good news

Sorry John hasn't been able to update this blog en route as planned. Phone reception has been rubbish, and then today his phone ran out of battery. The back up charger has failed, and he didnt take the mains one with him to use at camp sites so he's currently incommunicado. He did manage to take a step back in time and use one of those strange boxes at the side of the road (used to have A and B buttons and you used them to make phone calls in the days before mobiles, some of us even used to spend hours in them phoning dial a disc - 16 if I remember rightly) to make contact today though....am pleased to report that he has arrived at Osmotherley this afternoon, which is - trumpet fanfare - a quarter of the way, so thats a pretty big achievement.

The good news is that Pete Walden will be walking with John on Friday so he can go loaded with razors and a phone charger, which means you'll get a much better standard of blog from then on, as opposed to my inane ramblings.

More good news: the only injuries to report so far are a bit of a shredded face from taking the wrong make of disposable razors with him and a minor...er...rash that any of you blokes who take a lot of exercise would understand better than I ever could. You've done a great job Norman, as the knees, groin and back are all holding up really well.

The weather hasn't been great, it was so windy that John had to weigh down the tent with some rocks to stop it blowing away a couple of nights ago. Well, at least that's what he said, but those of us who know him might find it hard to believe that additional ballast was required. He's going to kill me when he reads that.

Right, I'm off to my comfy warm bed with its snuggly quilt....warning soppy bit coming up here...and thinking of John lying on a mattress no thicker than a Walkers crisp in his sleeping bag and wearing a woolly hat to keep warm, with the wind and rain howling round his tiny tent, it makes me realise that however much he is enjoying the challenge, its a bloody hard slog, and we're all really proud of him.

Underway.....

Its Cheryl here, writing for John as he's either in a no signal area or has discovered that bashing the keys on his phone to make it work might actually do the opposite, or alternatively (and most likely) he's had a couple of beers and has retired to bed resplendent in woolly had and the kind of nightwear best left to the imagination.....

John started out this morning with Andy (Louise's husband) to see him off. They did that blokey hand shaking/pat on the back type thing, but suspect they both found it an emotional moment bearing in mind what, or rather who, inspired him to undertake this walk.

The start of this trek wasnt without controversy. Yesterday, having gone to The Bay Hotel in RHB followed by fish and chips overlooking the beach, John decided that this would count as the first 'Coast' and he would start the walk this morning from the camp site on the hill at the top of RHB. Being a bit of a stickler for tradition, I 'suggested' that he should dip his boots in the sea today to mark the official start of the journey. John was not at all impressed as the walk from the sea back up to the camp site is just about vertical (well it is to me, having lived in Cambridge most of my life). But, this morning, suitably fortified by a bacon sarnie on the way down the hill, he duly got his feet wet as you can see in the photo above. Just as well really, cos it would have been a bit of a bugger to have got to St Bees then decide that the start of the walk hadnt been done quite right...

Am sure John will write in a much more entertaining way about his first day tomorrow - and hopefully he'll tell all about the aggro in the pub in Grosmont where some visiting train spotters and a couple of locals got involved in a bit of argy bargy....Yes really, trainspotters!

First target reached

just hit the £2500 mark so all I have to do is walk it now! Will be leaving in about half an hour assuming I manage to get everything into the rucksack. Bride has been briefed on not blowing the mower up in my absence (its a blokes job lawns are) Having problems with activating the blog from my mobile so will have to use technical support aka the brother in law. Thanks to everybody that has sponsored me so far I shall do my best to justify the faith.

Disregard tech support requirements we have blog access..... waheyy all it took was bashing the keys harder and repeatedly aided by obligatory foul and abusive language. Now all we need is a signal. more later!